Please select your language

In the Spotlight

Runway Scan: 5 spring trends that will spill over from the runway to the street

by Tina Lončar

February 22, 2024

Although the collections for the warm season, which we are slowly immersing ourselves in with all our senses, walked the runways of fashion metropolises a few months ago, it is time to studiously dissect them, detect the dominant silhouettes, analyze down to the last detail and find out what hides the greatest potential to become a trend and to color the streets.

Although this season the fashion companies played it somewhat safe by suggesting muted tones and trends that we have long been accustomed to (like the already classic floral pattern that we faithfully return to as soon as the days get longer), the pantless trend continues to dominate as the most controversial, the waist has dropped and risen, and the looks at the presentations were sometimes eclectically layered, several trends were found in the fashion visions for spring that will be easy to recreate. The spring ahead may not be the most daring, but it will certainly be unburdened and chic.

Super short shorts

After the pantless trend conquered the runways and (mostly) shocked uninformed passersby when a few daring fashionistas stepped onto the street in statement “panties”, it was completely logical to expect that the trend would continue to develop in the coming seasons. Which direction it would go in, though, no one could tell. While the bold “no pants” mantra continued to dominate the runway in the spring/summer collections of names such as Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu and Isabel Marant, the warm-season versions of the pants still generally weighed in on the more wearable and “decent” side, at least to such an extent that we can safely call them pants and not a part of underwear. Sabato de Sarno brought back a somewhat forgotten sex appeal to Gucci, and he simply incorporated micro shorts into the new-old aesthetic of the Italian fashion company, with the leather shorts standing out. Max Mara also made them an indispensable part of their chic “uniform”, and bravely brief models walked the runway of Chanel as well as those of Alexander McQueen in the last collection designed by Sarah Burton. To make them even more striking, this spring we’re styling them with blazers, coats and blouses to contrast the bare legs with long sleeves.

Alexander McQueen, Spring 2024, Photo: GoRunway

Tonal dressing

Dressing from head to toe in one color, but mixing several different shades, has always been a synonym for unburdened chic and elegance, particularly when it includes skillfully combining objects of different textures, which ultimately creates an interesting visual effect. Tonal dressing returned in great style to the catwalks in the spring/summer collections, inviting us to more boldly play with layers, and Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara and Victoria Beckham served us their suggestions. Their fashion visions have confirmed that this way of styling works in all color variations, and the most striking impression is achieved by combining different textures and by accentuating with fashion accessories in a different color. Black or white are, of course, always a safe choice.

Max Mara
Louis Vuitton

Super high vs. super low

Although the spring collections are still dominated by middle waist pants, it was impossible not to notice the invasion of dramatically low and super high waists. Although, in general, we still kind of resist the return of low-waisted jeans that take us back to the beginning of the millennium, Miuccia Prada dressed her Miu Miu in casual sporty chic with pants and tiny skirts that “lay” low on the hips. Bearing in mind that spring managed to “slip” us the much more controversial pantless trend last season, it is logical to conclude that spring will soon embrace the return of the trend that it has skillfully resisted for some time. On the other hand, Jonathan Anderson celebrated ten years at the Spanish fashion house Loewe with a collection dominated by pants with an incredibly high waist, so high that he had to build in a “corset” in them to keep them in place.

Miu Miu
Louis Vuitton

All White Everything

The explosion of white, which is already a symbol of sunny and sultry summer days, sovereignly occupied the runways in the spring/summer 2024 collections. Looks that could be placed in the “all white everything” drawer dominated the fashion stories so much that it was impossible not to notice them. However, although white is always somewhat elegant, classic and unerringly subtle, textures dominated the visions for the warm season, and so did playing with the contrast of solid and transparent materials, and exceptionally striking cuts. The house of Schiaparelli completed one of its most glamorous white looks with gold accents, just like Valentino did, whose look is more casual in combination with sneakers, while a fantastic oversized suit complemented with white ballet flats and a bag walked the runway of the Jacquemus brand. Head-to-toe white is this warm season’s go-to look that’s hard to go wrong with.


The big return of the polo shirt

The polo shirt has always been synonymous with old money aesthetics, especially when it comes to men’s wardrobe. Miu Miu, as one of the most influential brands today, has now transported it to the women’s wardrobe as well, in a very casual and slightly sporty version. In Miuccia Prada’s vision, the polo shirt is the queen of spring styling, and the inventive designer suggests us to wear it in unusual combinations with long-sleeved shirts worn under the shirt (hello double collars!), mini skirts with frills, blazers, blouses and, in short, everything you can imagine. Chanel, Victoria Beckham, The Row and Y/Project jumped on the same train and offered their version of the polo shirt. 

Miu Miu