The best beauty looks to borrow from London Fashion Week
As fashion month draws to a close, Vogue breaks down the best beauty looks from LFW to add to your rotation.
Vogue AdriaMarch 5, 2024
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There’s no better place to find fresh beauty inspiration than on the runways at Fashion Week, and this season’s shows served up a feast for every taste imaginable. From the grunge eyeliner framing faces at Erdem and Aaron Esh, to the dreamy doll skin seen on countless catwalks across the capital, LFW AW24 was rife with moments made for elevating the mundane. And whether your camp is in the effortless glamour of dewy, barely-there beauty or you dare to dabble in the experimental, you’re in luck: we’ve ventured backstage to bring you the very best talents to borrow from. Below, Vogue unpacks the biggest beauty looks from London Fashion Week, and how to wear them.
Mannequin skin
Doll-like beauty has been everywhere in the frenzy that followed that Pat Mcgrath moment at Margiela. While the uber-laminated look may lack a little practicality, lessons in everyday mannequin skin were plenty at the LFW shows.
For the “polished and beautiful” complexions that shone at Erdem’s AW24 show, there are actual aestheticians to thank. To execute designer Erdem Moralioglu’s vision of “glass-like, dewy skin” inspired by opera legend Maria Callas, an army of 111SKIN experts got to work behind the scenes. The dazzling glow that ensued – which came by way of multi-masking facials and stimulating lymphatic massage – is proof that good skin never goes out of style.
Similarly, glossy complexions were centre-stage at 16Arlington, where a pared-back, “skin-first approach” kept the focus firmly on Marco Capaldo’s flamboyant design signature. Paired with tactile accessories, exquisite tailoring and flashes of tinselled fur, Lauren Parsons’ make-up declared skinimalism the ultimate match for extravagant occasionwear.
Slick talk
From foiled tresses at Chet Lo to finger waves at Tolu Coker, slick hair was the watchword at many AW24 shows. See the best looks to borrow below.
Tolu Coker
The perfect companion for glassy skin? Glossy lids and wet-look waves, of course. Lans Nguyen-Grealis served up a lustrous beauty look worth emulating at Tolu Coker, with an application that even the make-up novice can complete. Take a swipe of multipurpose gloss over bare skin and bronzy shadows to add sheen and interest to a basic base. And if you didn’t plan on a pixie crop for 2024, fret not: Tolu’s team transformed a suite of wigs to create the retro style. Taking inspiration from the finger waves of ’60s fame, “wigs were waved and set to air dry with gel, ” lead hair artist Efi Davies explains. For a natural, modern finish, she then ”soaked” them in copious amounts of shine spray “to break the hold but keep the shape.” The result? Laminated locks with a modish edge to keep on your hair mood board.
Emilia Wickstead
Mirroring the super smooth visages that came courtesy of Eve Lom’s luxe skincare, models sported slick side partings at Emilia Wickstead. Swooped to the extreme and a little gamine, hairstylist Ali Pirzadeh sleeked all strands with hairspray except those at the edges, keeping baby hairs fluffy and lending softness to the structured style. We’re calling it: this is the cool girl version of the classic slick back. Brush firm-hold hairspray through your roots and mid-lengths with a rat tail comb, then smooth it with a hairdryer to achieve the look.
Richard Quinn
Deep, sleek side parts were the style du jour at Richard Quinn, where Sam McKnight channelled “‘80s couture” in his creation of elaborate updos. Right at home on a runway renowned for its regal bridal gowns, the look takes considerable coiffing but is easier to achieve than you might think. Part your hair into two halves, smoothing the back half into a French pleat using hairspray and chignon pins. For the front, follow McKnight’s method for finessing a slick side swoop: wave with wide curlers, brush into a curving bang and swirl ends up into your pinned twist at the crown. Elegance epitomised.
Mesmer-eyes
Whether with sooty kohl eyeliner or pops of punchy colour, eyes got the look-at-me treatment on runways the world over. For inspiration, refer to Erdem’s fierce and theatrical ink; Peter Philips’ electric pink eye look at Dior in Paris; scorching London bus reds at SRVC Studio; or follow cues from Connor Ives for an unmissable romantic lash.
Connor Ives
Baby blue eyeshadows did the rounds at several London shows, but their combination with sepia lashes at Conner Ives made for a standout beauty look. Rendered in a custom mix of eyeshadows blown out to the brow bone by Lucy Bridges, the enchanting gaze is elegant and easy to recreate. Groom soft brows with Byredo’s Sand Brow Definer, then diffuse the blue pigment of your choice all over the lids. The brow pencil is the perfect texture and hue for tight-lining eyes with an earthy brown, and you can layer on brown mascara or lashes for a flirty, fluttering finish.
Di Petsa
The slick siren skin that’s become a staple at Di Petsa bore an ominous edge this season. Fashioned from make-up artist Crystabel Riley’s own sterling silver creations, wire eyeliner was in knife-sharp contrast with the models’ angelic mermaid beauty. A deliberate juxtaposition, according to designer Dimitra Petsa, who tells Vogue she was “fascinated by the Madonna-Whore dichotomy” when creating her AW24 collection. To give your liner look a dangerous, dimensional twist, follow Riley’s lead and use eyelash glue on clean lids to adhere metallic extensions.
Embellished brows
Simone Rocha
When it comes to the statement brows seen at Simone Rocha, wallflowers need not apply. Floriphiles, on the other hand, should certainly get involved. Skillfully erased and reimagined by key make-up artist Thomas De Kluyver, eyebrows were painted in a skinny style with a floral arch. Block your brows with a strong hold gel, high coverage concealer and setting powder, then get creative with cosmetic face paints to try your hand at the look.
Jawara Alleyne
Meanwhile at Jawara Alleyne, a new kind of eyebrow grooming emerged. Inspired by life in the Cayman Islands – Alleyne’s hometown where natural disaster is an ever-looming threat – storm-drenched skin was the simple canvas for bold accented brows. Crystabel Riley took silver foils to the top of windswept strands, but the lightning look is easily replicated with metallic eyeliner. One to bookmark for a refreshing take on enhanced eyebrows.
Keep it wrapped
Of all the marvellous headgear worn this season, one item reigned supreme: the humble headband. A bad hair day failsafe, ultra-wide styles framed faces and focused in on the radiant beauty at Paolo Carzana, Conner Ives and SRVC. From sheer mesh scarves to sportier takes, the accessory was effortlessly chic. And not too outré for the everyday, it’s a trend we can get behind.
