Sommelier Marko Jurić shares unexpected pairings for Vogue Adria

Last week, a new series of signature dinners called Sommelier’s Table launched at the Zagreb restaurant Kiyomi. The concept is simple: you book your seat in advance at a table that accommodates just 12 guests, look forward to a carefully curated selection of wines paired with Kiyomi’s multi-course menu, and are guided through the experience by the house sommeliers, Toni Arbunić and Marko Jurić. Every glass tells a story, and some of the wines are so rare on the market that this is the only opportunity to taste them. The dinners take place on Thursdays, from 6:00 to 8:30 pm, running all the way until December 11. Alongside the fact that the dinner is limited to a small number of guests, Toni and Marko also share their personal experiences, knowledge, and anecdotes, which makes this a particularly compelling way to enjoy a different kind of gastronomic experience.

We met Marko Jurić at Kiyomi, were intrigued by everything he told us while recommending wines for dinner, and decided to ask him for advice on which wine to serve if we want conversations to last all night, which prosecco is best for a Saturday brunch, which wine pairs best with which music album, and a few more wine questions about combinations you may not have considered before. Dinner at Kiyomi made us do it. Welcome to our table.

A wine suggestion you can drink all night with friends, while keeping the conversation flowing?

“For social gatherings, I choose wines that are approachable, aromatically playful, and preferably with a slightly lower alcohol content. Light German Rieslings such as a Kabinett from Schloss Vollrads or the elegant Zilliken Butterfly are always a safe bet. Among Italian favorites, I would single out northern Pinot Grigios, for example from Livon or Livio Felluga, while the absolute it choice is Fantinel Sun Goddess in the Ramato style, created in collaboration with Mary J. Blige, which offers a beautiful copper hue and impressive depth of flavor. For lovers of local wines, there are strong domestic options like Muškat Momjanski from the Prelac winery, fresh but also aged Pušipel from the Dvanajšćak-Kozol family, the aromatic Puhelek-Purek Sauvignon Blanc, or a light Škrlet from Klet Romić.”

The ideal prosecco for a Saturday brunch?

“Prosecco is a protected designation for sparkling wines produced using the Charmat method, where the second fermentation takes place in large stainless steel tanks, made from the Glera grape grown around the town of Treviso. Although prosecco is an absolute global hit and by far the best-selling sparkling wine, for a Saturday brunch I would happily reach for a glass of domestic sparkling wines from Plešivica, which impress with their quality and character. For example, Kurtalj DRI, Jagunić Blanc de Blancs, the elegant creations of Korak, or the seductive Šember Rosé. From Međimurje, highlights include Urban White by the Štampar family and Jakopić Terbotz. I believe that wines made using the traditional method, with a second fermentation in the bottle, offer greater complexity and creaminess, making them a better match for brunch, and domestic winemakers have never produced cleaner or more striking sparkling wines.”

A wine for a midweek dinner that will not give us a headache the next working day?

“The most common culprit behind a headache after drinking wine is, quite simply, alcohol and excessive consumption. This leads to dehydration, and one of its symptoms is precisely a headache. For some people, tannins or histamines, which are naturally present in grape skins and therefore more common in macerated and red wines, can also trigger additional reactions. That is why the first and most important piece of advice is always the same: drink plenty of water alongside wine and do not overdo it. For a relaxed dinner in the middle of the workweek, a light, fresh white wine that will not burden either the palate or the next day’s schedule is ideal, such as a well-chilled young Malvasia or Maraština, as well as the already mentioned Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. The key lies in moderation and choosing a wine you genuinely enjoy.”

If we are planning ice cream for dessert, which wine pairs perfectly with it?

“For a perfect dessert, there is no need to overcomplicate things. Drizzle vanilla ice cream with a few drops of Pedro Ximénez and enjoy a small moment of magic. Pedro Ximénez is a type of sherry, a rich, sweet Spanish wine from Jerez, known for its opulent aromas of dried raisins, figs, and nuts.”

The first association that comes to mind when pairing a music album with a wine?

“Perhaps a little unconventional, but Jinx’s album Second Hand always evokes the idea of a five-course dinner for me. Astro Party calls for funky bubbles like the energetic Danger 380 Volts by Milan Nestarec from Moravia. In Brazil, we move on to the Austrian Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 by Bernhard Ott, still electric enough to accompany the lively melodies. And what kind of funky wine story would it be without an orange wine? Alongside the track Smijem se, a cheerful, long-macerated Ronco Severo Pinot Grigio from northeastern Italy is a perfect match, best drunk quickly, because Čuvar močvara i trava is already on its way, the perfect moment to switch to red. We move to France, to the Beaujolais region, where a juicy and complex Marcel Lapierre Morgon provides the ideal pairing for this melodic stage. To the dreamy piano lines of Ruku s Daleko od mraka sakrio si me…, we open the fridge for a glass of the opulent Sauska Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, a sweet Hungarian wine made from Furmint berries affected by noble rot, ideal for a meditative finale.”

Are there any ideal wines for autumn dinners?

“If in summer we look for fresh and light wines, and in winter we gravitate toward something a bit warmer, autumn is the perfect time for that golden middle ground and all the wonders it holds. Personally, I always reach for champagnes, dry Rieslings, or aged Chardonnays, as well as lighter red wines such as Pinot Noir and Nerello Mascalese. These are precisely the labels we focus on at our wine dinners throughout this autumn, until December 11, and I very much look forward to sharing our selections with guests.”

Which wine is so fresh and playful that it could make people forget about their phones?

“Definitely Chablis. One of our eternal favorites at the restaurant, so fresh and lively that it truly can make guests forget about their phones. On our wine list, we offer as many as four different Chablis and are constantly exploring new producers. It is an exceptionally mineral Chardonnay from the northernmost part of Burgundy, from the town of the same name, revealing aromas of lemon, green apple, and salty marine notes in the glass.”

Which wine would be a secret ‘bridge’ between people who are just getting to know each other?

“I would always suggest reaching for champagne. These refined bubbles from the French region of the same name, most often produced from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, have an almost magical power to connect people. Just the mention of champagne evokes a sense of respect and specialness, and in my experience, the quality is always exceptional.”

Which wine could surprise even the most demanding guest without seeming like we are trying too hard?

“At Kiyomi, we have a few hidden gems. A personal favorite is Misto Mare from the Alois Lageder winery in the Dolomites of northern Italy. This wine is their newest label and represents the transition to the organic and biodynamic approach the winery embraces. It is extremely drinkable, invites another glass, is aromatically intriguing yet still reasonably priced. In addition to Italian options, we also have a strong contender in Dubrovnik Malvasia Bianca. This is a lesser-known variety from Konavle, although it is also grown in Italy and Spain, which produces wines with more body and ripe aromas while retaining enough freshness. We pour Miljas Dubrovnik Malvasia, and the Zoro winery also makes excellent examples. Furthermore, lesser-known appellations often offer excellent value for money and can pleasantly surprise even more demanding guests. Do you like Sauvignon? Instead of Sancerre or Marlborough, try Styria in Slovenia or Austria. Riesling? We can head to Eden Valley in Australia, Wachau in Austria, or even Alsace in eastern France. For red wines, instead of Bordeaux, we can simply move south to Languedoc-Roussillon, where we will find more Mediterranean influence, just as we do in the hinterland of Zadar, where the best Bordeaux-style blends in Croatia are made.”

If we wanted a wine that boosts everyone’s confidence and encourages conversation, what would you suggest?

“When we want to lift the atmosphere and the confidence of everyone at the table, bubbles and the pop of a cork are an unfailing choice. For guests eager for a new experience, I always recommend the elegant Bellavista Franciacorta. For those who prefer classic reliability, the refined Nicolas Maillart Rosé Grand Cru Champagne is perfect, while for the more adventurous, the characterful Korak Stare Sorte Brut Nature is the right choice. Of course, prosecco is always welcome too, especially in the extra dry version, which brings a touch more playful sweetness than classic brut, making it ideal for long, joyful gatherings.”