Island scattered across the world and a postcard from another time

Floating on the shimmering blue of the Adriatic, just off the coast of Korčula’s old town, Vrnik is quiet, unassuming, and built from the very stone it’s known for. From the moment you catch sight of it from the boat, the sea seems clearer, the air more fragrant. With just a handful of stone houses lining a tranquil cove and pathways shaded by lush greenery, the island radiates a peaceful simplicity. As the water taxi nears the shore, the breeze carries the briny scent of the sea, mingling with the aromas of tamarisk, sage, and blooming broom. With the changing seasons, the air fills with hints of laurel, pittosporum, and cypress, while summer brings the sweet notes of figs and oleander. At first glance, Vrnik may seem modest, but beneath its quiet exterior lies a rich tapestry of stories waiting to be discovered.

Nature here has carved its perfect landscape in collaboration with time and human hands. Long dry-stone walls and remnants of quarries are now overgrown with maquis and pine trees, creating a picturesque contrast to the deep blue sea. Along the shore, lush purple bougainvillea grows, while the canopies of old cypresses and pines offer pleasant shade above white pebble beaches. Vrnik is more than just a picturesque island—it’s a living testament to the centuries-old bond between people and stone. For generations, high-quality stone has been quarried here, shaping not only the island’s landscape but also the architecture of empires. The Romans prized Vrnik’s stone for their grand villas and cities along the eastern Adriatic, and during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, the island’s master stonemasons perfected their craft. Over time, Vrnik stone became a symbol of both strength and beauty. In fact, Vrnik is often called the birthplace of Dalmatian stone carving. Legend has it that the renowned stonemasons of Brač first learned their trade from the craftsmen of Korčula and Vrnik. For centuries, massive stone blocks have been extracted here, and locals say you can find them all over the world. Records show that Vrnik stone is present on Dubrovnik’s Stradun, in the Rector’s Palace, in the Split Cathedral of Saint Domnius within Diocletian’s Palace, in Šibenik’s Cathedral of St. James, the Hungarian Parliament in Budapest, the City Hall in Vienna… Some even say that the Hagia Sophia was partially built with stone from Vrnik, and that this same stone found its way into the White House in Washington, D.C.

Forty years ago, Vrnik was home to 55 year-round residents. Today, only six remain. Even the last of the island’s stone carvers no longer brave the harsh winters here, when strong winds and isolation take over. Because living on an island isn’t just about resilience—you have to be a little bit of everything. Island life demands patience, resourcefulness, and hands that can build, fix, and create. Though only a handful of people now call Vrnik home year-round, the island’s cultural life is richer than it might seem. At its heart stands the Church of Our Lady of Škoj (Our Lady of the Island), built in 1856. Its elegant rounded apse remains a testament to the skill of Vrnik’s stonemasons—each block cut so precisely that they fit together seamlessly, without a single visible joint. Next to the church, the old schoolhouse, once filled with the chatter of local children, has been transformed into a summer exhibition space and the home of the Vrnik Arts Club. During the warmer months, local and visiting artists bring the island’s history to life with painting and sculpture exhibitions, creating a dialogue between past and present.

In summer, Vrnik awakens. Occasionally, the sound of traditional Dalmatian klapa singing drifts through the harbor, the harmonies echoing against the island’s stone facades. On those warm nights, with a glass of homemade carob or rose liqueur in hand, visitors get a rare chance to experience the true Mediterranean spirit and the quiet, enduring hospitality of Vrnik. On the other side of the island, in the sheltered Bufalo Bay, where the sea glistens under the soft light of the late afternoon, a small oasis of art and silence is hidden. Here, sculptor Lujo Lozica creates his impressive sculptures of stone and marble, whose rounded elegance reflects the very essence of Mediterranean sensuality. His studio, located right by the sea, becomes a kind of summer art school, attracting those eager to express themselves creatively in an environment where time seems to stretch like a long summer day on the Adriatic.

Though small, Vrnik and nearby Korčula have, throughout history, attracted some famous guests — perhaps precisely because of this blend of seclusion and beauty. In the 1960s, after a traumatic event, Jacqueline Kennedy found peace on Korčula, and it’s said she enjoyed the silence of the small islands, including Vrnik, soaking in the comfort of the Mediterranean sun and sea. It’s known that Beyoncé and Jay-Z fell in love with Vrnik — especially with the Church of Our Lady of Škoj, where Beyoncé, so enchanted by its beautiful energy, performed an a cappella concert for a small, lucky audience. Just in the past few years, other celebrity visitors have included Woody Harrelson, Matthew McConaughey, tennis players Novak Đoković and Patrick Rafter, actors Chris Rock and Aziz Ansari — while some local stars already feel like they belong here. If I were to come up with a catchy headline, I’d say Vrnik is the tiny island with the most stars per square meter in the world.

It’s not hard to understand why Vrnik is so enchanting. On this car-free, shop-free island, even the gastronomy carries that primal, homemade character — but with a touch of sophistication. The Vrnik Arts Club, housed in the old school building on the very shore, is also a refined bistro that blends local flavors with modern presentation. Sitting on their terrace, with your feet almost in the warm pebbles of the beach, life takes on a special note of carefree indulgence. Besides the Arts Club, there are no classic restaurants on Vrnik; the island’s isolation dictates modest offerings. But the hosts make do: often, you’ll be greeted by a table in a courtyard overflowing with homemade products. Olive oil from local groves, rosemary and sage honey, herbal brandy infused with island plants, traditional dried figs, and crispy kroštule — all part of the experience. The flavors of Vrnik are not served on a silver platter of luxury but on a rustic wooden board of authenticity — a gourmet experience enriched by the scent of the sea and the tranquility of the island ambiance.

While summer brings Vrnik to life, winter returns it to silence. The warm months are filled with sunshine and visitors – houses open, boats dock, and the island hums with activity. Children leap off the pier hand in hand, elders sip wine in the shade, and cicadas sing endlessly under the blazing sky. But when the seasons change, so does the rhythm of the island. Winter on Vrnik is quiet and solitary, with only a few residents remaining as the fierce bura and jugo winds take turns sweeping the coast. By late autumn, the island grows still – by November, shutters are drawn, boats disappear, and gardens draped in grapevines and bougainvillea slip into a deep slumber… waiting for summer to wake them once again.