Island Diary: Ena Mihoci takes us through her favorite spots on Vis

When she is not planning one of her work trips, which include photographing weddings all over the world, Ena Mihoci most enjoys unwinding on Vis, the island she and her husband David always love returning to. “When our clients from the US curiously ask me which island in Croatia is my favorite, I always single out Vis, and I never quite know how to explain it to them in the simplest way, but it usually goes something like this: it feels remote, it is not overcrowded like Hvar, it is special and authentic, nearby you have the Blue Cave as well as Capri… and while they still look at me with a question mark above their heads, I remember the film Mamma Mia 2, and then everything becomes easier,” Ena explains her fascination with Vis, hoping that we have all visited it at least once in our lives. I have, but even so, I always enjoy hearing good recommendations from different voices. “Despite today’s tourism and popularity, Vis still has that undiscovered vibe for me, untouched nature, authenticity, peace, and a general lack of pretension, and the tourists who come to the island are mostly looking for exactly that.” I agree with Ena, who tells me that their base is always Komiža. From there, Ena and David set off on their favorite summers, a glimpse of which she shares with us below.

What to see on Vis?

In addition to some of the most beautiful beaches on the Adriatic, and the towns of Vis and Komiža, even a drive through the island’s interior will not leave you indifferent. Numerous vineyards and olive groves cut across the island, while old houses and settlements give the impression that you have stepped back in time. If you veer slightly off the road, you might find yourself on a gravel track, or, as happened to us, discover less typical tourist spots such as a house with a stone garden where you can stop for refreshment. Suffice it to say that Vis is also home to a place called Žena Glava.

For diving enthusiasts, Vis is an excellent place to explore the underwater world and the wrecks of sunken ships and planes that have been resting in the depths of the sea around the island for many years. The Blue and Green Caves, as well as the island of Biševo, are unmissable destinations if you are on Vis. Swimming is allowed only in the Green Cave, while the Blue Cave is visited by local boats. Of everything Vis has to offer, my favorite excursion, alongside a trip to Biševo, is a tour of the island with Ames. The first thing we do when we arrive in Komiža is book a trip on this gastro music boat. To be clear, it is neither a fancy nor a particularly special boat, nor is it a tired tourist attraction. It is run by a husband and wife, local people who fill the boat and the entire excursion with so much love, joy, interesting stories, songs accompanied by a guitar, and a lunch prepared by the woman, who also steers the boat alongside her husband. They delight us so much every time that we always book the same island tour again, and it is an experience I would warmly recommend to everyone. The island is most magical when seen from the sea, and it is also fascinating to hear so many details about it directly from local people.

Do not miss experiencing: the Blue and Green Caves, the island of Biševo

A special experience: an excursion with the gastro music boat Ames, which should be booked in advance

Definitely try: diving around the island, as the coastline is beautiful and ideal for exploration

Extra tip: get lost in the island’s interior and let life surprise you

Where to swim on Vis?

Vis is an island of beautiful beaches, and if you decide to explore and visit only them, you will not be disappointed. Among the most beautiful beaches on Vis, word has already spread far and wide about the picturesque Stiniva. It is a beach hidden and enclosed by cliffs that was once actually a cave. My favorite, however, is Pritišćina Bay. There are Velika and Mala Pritišćina, but reaching the smaller one is somewhat more complicated if you are not arriving by boat. I would even dare to say that Velika Pritišćina is my favorite beach on the entire Adriatic. The sea is turquoise and crystal clear, surrounded by sharp cliffs and rock indentations like small caves. Last time, my boys spent half the day jumping into the sea from the surrounding rocks, and everyone was perfectly fine. In addition to that, I also love Porat Bay on Biševo. It is a sandy beach with crystal clear water on an island where time seems to have stopped. You can get there by a fast speedboat from Vis or by a slightly slower local line. In both cases, the experience is good. There are two restaurants in Porat, so you will not go hungry, and the only thing I usually miss there is time, so I could stay longer in that peace and beauty. I recently also discovered the beautiful sandy beach of Vela Smokova, which hides part of a sunken airplane in its depths. The beach can be reached on foot or by sea, and it is usually not overcrowded with tourists. My son said it is as beautiful as the beaches in Mexico, which is a serious compliment coming from him.

Srebrena Beach is also one of the most popular and most beautiful beaches on Vis, and in addition to crystal clear water, the white pebbles and flat rocks are an extra bonus. Alongside all these wonderful coves across the island, I would not overlook the slightly less perfect local town beaches either. Between fishermen’s houses and the outlines of the town of Komiža, I always find it interesting to spend time on one of these beaches and simply enjoy the authentic atmosphere of island life. Children running freely, jumping into the sea from small piers and having fun, people repairing boats and cleaning fish, seagulls stealing leftover fish from restaurants, and that whole slow life by the sea give me a new kind of fascination. When, in the middle of the season, we want to go somewhere peaceful where we know there will not be many tourists, we usually head to Komarča Beach. Nearby, there is also a former JNA naval shelter, which is interesting to see.

The most beautiful beaches on Vis: Stiniva, Velika Pritišćina, Porat on Biševo, Srebrena, Komarča

A beach with a special story: Vela Smokova, which hides the wing of a World War II airplane in its depths

Take note: Mala Pritišćina is difficult to reach without a boat, and you do not need to pack much for Porat as there are two restaurants

Extra tip: make sure to stop occasionally at local town beaches, which are very charming and less crowded

Definitely visit: the JNA naval shelter near Komarča Beach

Where to eat on Vis?

Vis truly offers a lot of good food. Komiža pie is one of the most popular local dishes that you should definitely try, and you can find it in many restaurants, pizzerias, and even bakeries. In Komiža, do not miss the legendary Jastožera, where the house specialties are, of course, lobster dishes, but the restaurant’s atmosphere itself is also unforgettable. Nearby, we also love going to Konoba Bako. In addition to excellent seafood specialties, the ambiance is special as well, since their terrace is right by the sea, allowing you to enjoy the view of the water, seagulls, the sky, and the outlines of Komiža just as much as the food. For breakfast and excellent Neapolitan pizza, we usually go to the popular Fabrika, and I would say it is popular for a reason. Everything we have eaten there has been excellent, as well as the food and drink selection, and the evening atmosphere is very positive. I give them a big plus for having matcha on the breakfast menu. I recently also discovered the new Jail Bar in Komiža, which is a lovely spot for a cocktail or a glass of wine on the beach in the evening. One of my favorite and must stop places on Vis is Gostionica Aerodrom. At first, I was won over by the look of this utterly unusual roadside spot “in the middle of nowhere,” near a former Allied airfield, and then I discovered that you can also enjoy good wine and a delicious meal there. Everything we ate was excellent. In Vis, I also always love the romantic atmosphere of Frutarija, where you can enjoy breakfast, light dishes, natural juices, and cocktails. For something more substantial and fish based, the classic choices are the restaurant Pojoda and konoba Lola, which also has a very charming ambiance. We always go to Karijola for pizza, and to Peškarija for sushi.

Legendary restaurants on Vis: Jastožera in Komiža, restaurant Pojoda and konoba Lola in Vis

A terrace by the sea: Konoba Bako, Komiža

A place for breakfast: Fabrika in Komiža, and their excellent matcha, and Frutarija in Vis

A place for cocktails: Jail Bar in Komiža

A must stop place: Gostionica Aerodrom in the island’s interior

A place for sushi: Peškarija in Vis

A place for pizza: Karijola in Vis

Bonus tip for Vis

If you have not yet been to the open air summer cinema in Komiža, I warmly recommend treating yourself to that experience. So far, I have only had the chance to watch children’s films and cartoons there, but seeing so many smiling children in one place, with so much excitement and joy on their faces, was truly priceless. I recently also discovered an excellent massage studio in Komiža called Mas. It is not for those who prefer a gentle touch, but for my back, the masseuse worked a real miracle. If you enjoy a stronger, therapeutic massage, this is the right place for you. Another interesting spot worth visiting is Fort George, an old British fortress that has been transformed into an attractive place for relaxation and enjoyment. There, you can have something delicious to eat, enjoy a drink with a sea view, and watch one of the most beautiful sunsets on the island. And if you enjoy social events, be sure to check the calendar, as various events and parties are often organized within the restaurant and bar.

A special summer experience: the open air summer cinema in Komiža

If you need a good, strong massage: Studio Mas in Komiža

Check the evening program and stop by beforehand for sunset: Fort George