In his debut couture collection, Matthieu Blazy “stripped” Chanel down

If the day is known by the morning, then today must be a great one, as it began with the presentation of Matthieu Blazy’s debut haute couture collection for Chanel. The designer, who took over the creative helm of the fashion house in April last year, has consistently delivered collections that the fashion world cannot stop talking about, composed of recognizable Chanel codes and intriguing details such as handbags adorned with star constellations. But what remains when Chanel motifs like tweed suits and decorative buttons are stripped away? Can such a collection retain the sensibility of the legendary Parisian fashion house? These are precisely the questions Blazy poses, as he says that in this new collection he was searching for the essence of Chanel.

The designer who transformed the Grand Palais into his own glamorous universe for his debut Chanel collection turned the same space into an enchanted forest for the couture show. Beneath the glass dome, tall, whimsical mushrooms in shades of red and pink emerged, setting a magical tone for the presentation of delicate pieces that would walk the runway. Indeed, in the spring couture collection, Blazy has “stripped” Chanel down, presenting pieces that retain traditional Chanel forms but are crafted from light, airy fabrics.

The ensembles that appeared on the runway took the form of the fashion house’s recognizable pieces, yet were thin and gentle, reminiscent of the first magical layer of Cinderella’s ball gown. Still, despite the delicacy of the materials and the fine, almost imperceptible details, these creations feel strong and enduring, with a touch of ethereal lightness, confirming that the essence of good design always rests on the precise architecture of the garment itself.

Attention was also drawn to silhouettes that are somewhat unusual for Chanel, yet entirely in harmony with the collection’s enchanted atmosphere. There were pieces made of mesh so delicate they seemed to be crafted from glass, black creations that stood in stark contrast to the pastel setting of the Grand Palais, yet were executed so skillfully that they evoked dark, enchanted plants in a mysterious forest, as well as sculptural designs such as a mushroom-shaped dress.

Fashion details were pared back, yet undeniably alluring, allowing us already to anticipate which pieces might top wish lists next season. Transparent handbags, shimmering as the models walked the runway, and two-tone shoes with intriguing heel details immediately captured the attention of fashion enthusiasts.

Despite the absence of the strictly structured forms characteristic of couture, as well as a restrained sense of theatricality, Matthieu Blazy’s first couture collection captivates with its vision and the designer’s subtle precision, heralding a new chapter for the fashion house under his creative leadership.