Marija Tarlać reveals a new face of traditional cuisine at a prestigious Belgrade address

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the foundations of modern haute cuisine were laid in France. It was during this period that the concept of “haute cuisine” emerged, emphasizing sophisticated culinary techniques, precision in preparation, and imaginative presentation. Influential figures such as François Pierre La Varenne and Marie-Antoine Carême led this gastronomic revolution, codifying culinary techniques and establishing the foundations of modern cuisine. In the 19th century, fine dining culture flourished with the emergence of renowned restaurants and the creation of restaurant guides across Europe, and today this concept also thrives in our region, enriched by recognizable traditional interweavings.

Through a series of striking impressions from some of the finest fine dining restaurants in Belgrade, Marija Tarlać has, over recent months, brought to life how an invaluable experience is created through the Mastercard platform priceless.com. The latest installment in this special series is the prestigious The Square restaurant at the Square Nine Hotel, where Marija’s exclusive dinner was personally curated by David Šimunić, executive chef and a member of JRE – Jeunes Restaurateurs.

An introduction to an unforgettable evening

“I arrive at the hotel and prepare for a special evening,” says Marija, her gaze sweeping across the carefully arranged room furnished with mid-20th-century designer pieces, whose lines carry the quiet confidence of the era in which they were created. As she gets ready in the spa bathroom, adorned with limestone details, she already imagines herself later unwinding here while reflecting on the evening’s impressions.

Photo: Franjo Matković

She now heads to the restaurant, where Chef David will reveal the story behind each of the five courses on the Serbian cuisine tasting menu. But before dinner, a surprise. “Who drew this?” Marija asks as David hands her a hand-drawn architectural sketch, a personal gift and an integral part of the experience, conceived as a lasting keepsake.

“Unfortunately, me,” David jokes, explaining, “I attended a secondary school of architecture, and then I came up with the idea of replacing architecture with cooking.” This meeting of architecture and gastronomy here is not a metaphor, but a real, tangible part of the experience, with lines, textures, and proportions translated into emotion on the plate and a drawing in the hand.

Refined local flavors

The menu’s inspiration is deeply rooted in the festive season, a time of gathering, memory, and warmth. Traditional, well-known flavors undergo a quiet transformation here. Russian salad, a symbol of the domestic table, takes on a new form through a subtle blend of French and Mediterranean techniques, while retaining its emotional core, that authentic, homegrown feeling.

“What do you most enjoy cooking?” Marija asks as she peeks into the kitchen. “Mućkalica, sarma, stews, trout, carp…” David replies. This is not merely a list of dishes, but a map of childhood flavors, seasons, and landscapes.

Serbian gastronomy here is presented not as a concept, but as a living practice, a philosophy of respect, craftsmanship, and the joy of creation.

Photo: Franjo Matković

As Marija already feels the flavors on her palate, the chef presents the next dish. “It’s a ribeye, smoked carpaccio, with capers, dehydrated olives, homemade mustard mayonnaise, pickled red onion, and anchovies,” a harmony and perfection of flavors with absolute aesthetic precision. Yet the most enjoyable thing in the kitchen is mistakes. “We learn from mistakes,” David says with a smile. In that sentence lies the entire philosophy of the kitchen, honest, alive, and human.

Dessert arrives at the end, an exciting combination of flavors, preparation methods, and ingredients that delights Marija’s sense of taste. “Wow, oh wow…” She is ready to retreat to her Superior room and indulge all her other senses in the spa bathroom.

Photo: Franjo Matković

Exclusively for Mastercard cardholders

Through the Mastercard priceless experience available on priceless.com, you immerse yourself in a world where Chef David Šimunić personally welcomes you and guides you through the story and inspiration behind each dish, paired with exceptional wines of the highest quality, allowing the flavors to become even more intense and every note to be expressed in an entirely new way. As a personal gift from the chef, a hand-drawn sketch of the dish is a special part of the overall experience, preserving this unique moment forever. An overnight stay in a luxurious Superior room overlooking a tranquil inner garden, a spa bathroom, and a generous breakfast the following morning complete an experience that is not easily described, but remembered.

Photo: Franjo Matković

Creative direction: Milena Kitić
Photo & video: Franjo Matković
Producer: Teona Milićević
Location: Square Nine Hotel Belgrade

This article was created in collaboration with the Mastercard brand.