A crochet tablecloth dress and walnut leaf pigments are the highlights in Marija Kulušić’s new collection

When we first talked about her new collection it was late August. The sun was still flickering high on the horizon that afternoon, and we were walking a little more briskly than usual across Zagreb’s overheated asphalt, probably fueled by the enthusiasm that always comes with the end of summer. The air smelled of new beginnings, and Marija Kulušić had just installed her first public artwork on Zrinjevac as part of the OKOLO project, a piece she titled Sklonište (Shelter).

She found inspiration in the sense of safety, warmth and softness that a refuge offers, the kind we used to build in childhood from bedsheets pulled out of closets and drawers. The elegant white curtains she used to decorate the central Zagreb park, reminiscent of a restaurant in an Opatija hotel, were crafted from recycled cotton sheets, turning something old into something entirely new, something that through her hands gained new value. Guided by this idea, she has delighted audiences countless times. Old crocheted tablecloths and blankets that once filled all our homes have, through repurposing and Marija’s imagination, become summer dresses and winter coats. Her new collection was still taking shape back then, but in creating it Marija followed the same principles that guided her while building Sklonište (Shelter) and shaping her previous collections, inspired by childhood memories and the desire to look at something old and familiar with fresh eyes.

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The first and fundamental idea behind the collection begins with the differences we carry within ourselves, which are reflected in the clothes we wear. Just as our character can be gentle, abrupt, emotional or impulsive, I see womenswear as a medium that uses form and texture to highlight our mood, moving from strict and traditional to modern and unexpected, Marija explains. She says that the new collection has neither a name nor a season. As always in her work, she focuses on creating pieces that feel timeless and that are made to be worn for a lifetime, partly because of the quality that guides every step of her process and partly because she does not care much for trends, fleeting fashion dictates or seasons, which are nearly impossible to define clearly today. This is why the collection features pieces that are playful and unusual at first glance, as well as those that are classic. All of them, ultimately, are highly wearable and easy to adapt, the designer says.

A strong contrast runs through the collection, one between crumpled and voluminous elements that appear slightly unusual beside simple, calm surfaces without texture. This contrast is present not only visually but also in the impression it creates. It merges the traditional in cut with the modern in details, the practical with the unconventional. Although the collection is dominated by non colors such as black and white and earthy tones of beige and brown, pieces in vivid pink and yellow bring a sense of optimism and brightness that fits easily into any season.

Techniques that often appeared in her earlier collections are present here as well: repurposing and reusing fabrics, crocheted tablecloths and hand dyeing with natural pigments, in this case extracted from walnut leaves and shells. Most of the textiles she uses are of natural origin, such as wool and cotton, while the rest are exclusively deadstock, which makes many pieces strictly limited, Marija explains while describing her creative process, always shaped by curiosity and experimentation, pushing boundaries and having the courage to try something different.

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Denis Butorac

Returning to childhood and memories, as well as the warmth of the familiar from which she always draws inspiration, Marija photographed the campaign for the new collection in her backyard and near the family home where she grew up. In this way I further emphasized the central idea of my new collection, how to turn something old and familiar into something fresh and modern. I like to call it seeing things with a new pair of eyes, the designer concludes.

Below, explore the pieces from Marija Kulušić’s new collection:

Photo: Denis Butorac
Make up: Petra Sever
Model: Ana P / Faith models