5 moments from the Jacquemus show I am still thinking about
Tara ĐukićJanuary 26, 2026
In the Spotlight
These days I literally look like Elton John wrapped in a yellow Jacquemus scarf in the front row of the brand’s show at the Picasso Museum. We walk similarly, gesture similarly, and analyze in much the same way (read: judge), except that I wear my signature accessory paired with house slippers and a bathrobe, with an audience that does not extend beyond the neighbors at the local supermarket chain. In a similar fashion mood, yesterday I followed the new Fall Winter 2026/2027 collection show titled La Palmier; I closed my eyes and, in my mind, leaned back on a striped deck chair under a parasol, one hand dipped into a bowl of sweet treats, confetti, joy, and carefree pleasure on Simon’s serving tray. Exactly eight years have passed since Jacquemus presented at this very venue. Back then, he was a young, rising designer expected to make the impossible possible, and today he proves that it is indeed possible.
The previous Jacquemus show was deeply personal, consistently reflecting on his Provençal roots and memories of his mother. This time, he wanted a change. A chance encounter with Picasso guided him toward a new stylistic direction inspired by the sculptural beauty of 1950s haute couture, the satirical humor of French film and television from the 1980s, and the sensuality of 1990s models.
Below, I highlight the five most important things to remember about the new Jacquemus collection.
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What is La Palmier, really?
If you followed the burlesque style teasers for the latest Jacquemus show, you could conclude that it refers to a palm-shaped hairstyle popular in the 1980s, an essential pass to cool Parisian parties. On the other hand, it also recalls our favorite childhood hairstyle, a little palm on top of the head, which Jacquemus’s daughter wears as well. The show invitation itself came with a wide-tooth comb for detangling and instructions on how to achieve the palmier hairstyle. In that spirit, many of the models wore this eccentric hairstyle on the runway, further emphasizing the retro spirit of the collection, based on sculptural cocktail silhouettes, coats with batwing sleeves, sheer dresses, and contemporary, daring suits, which we will discuss further below.
Paloma Picasso as the key reference
As the starting point for the collection, Simon pinned a black-and-white Helmut Newton photograph to his mood board, depicting jewelry designer and Pablo Picasso’s daughter Paloma, in a black dress with a dropped strap, her semi-nude torso concealed by a tall glass. “I wanted to reach this powerful woman, the spirit of the eighties, the tailoring of the fifties, and the sensuality of the nineties,” he said, referring to the recreated look that closed the show. Fashion lately has been full of such vintage homages and archival explorations, but at this moment, we want to watch Jacquemus write his own history.
Retro silhouettes
Reading the many reviews after the show, I remembered a sentence stating that this collection looks like Jacquemus alone and no other brand, which in an era of mass fashion, with very similar narratives and aesthetics, may be the most valid compliment of all. Reinterpreting the geometric shapes for which the brand has become known, the collection reimagines its signature polka dots and stripes, elevating sculptural design to an entirely new level. The Jacquemus silhouette now reaches a retro formality, accentuated by recognizable extravagant hats and the graceful way the models strutted down the museum’s marble steps, hands on hips. Yes, extravagance is in fashion, but here it follows the natural line of the body, with hourglass shaped dresses as well as fish silhouettes, achieved through a special intarsia technique, an allusion to 1980s star Jean Charles de Castelbajac. The playfulness of the collection is enhanced by colorful 3D polka dots that actually mimic confetti with little tufts along the edges. “The message was to do something fun,” the designer said. “That is a kind of obsession for me this year. I want everyone to have fun and not take ourselves too seriously.” Me too, Simon.
Menswear
In the menswear offering, Jacquemus ventures particularly far beyond expectations: a tuxedo jacket is paired with glorified boxer shorts, a blouson jacket adorned with small colorful polka dots, some of them feathered. Just like in the womenswear, strict tailoring does not come at the expense of Jacquemus’s playfulness. Just look at all that confetti peeking out of the pockets of suit jackets with pocket squares, the pink palette of suits, the fluffy textures, party hats, and of course, once again, little palms on top of the head. Ahead of the show, Simon emphasized that menswear has reached womenswear in terms of sales volume, primarily thanks to trousers, as well as shirts and tailored pieces, and that he has no intention of neglecting it.
A new brand ambassador in the front row
In the front row sat Simon’s grandmother and newly appointed brand ambassador, Liline Jacquemus, who stated that she is always happy to respond to his invitation. “As long as my grandson is happy, that is the only thing that matters to me. Family comes first,” she said. She was seated right next to other Jacquemus faces, from Elton John and Sophie Marceau to Josh Hartnett and the Korean group Illit.
Photo: Gorunway.com
