The House of Hermès has gracefully closed a chapter in fashion

Véronique Nichanian’s final runway show as Hermès’ menswear designer, after 37 years in the role, marked not only the end of an era but did so with elegance and poise befitting the Parisian house.

The Fall 2026 collection, presented at the iconic Palais Brongniart, demonstrated how luxury can remain subtle, enduring, and refined, even in an era of significant change in the fashion industry. Crafted with a focus on high-quality materials and precise tailoring, it reaffirmed Hermès’ signature style that has defined nearly four decades of Nichanian’s career. Silky roll-neck sweaters, leather trousers, and opulent coats dominated the runway in a restrained palette of navy, black, and taupe, punctuated by occasional standout tones that broke the minimalism.

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A large part of the collection was built on a skillful mix of new designs and reinterpretations of archival pieces that the designer first created decades ago, serving as a kind of homage to the enduring identity of Hermès. For example, the leather jumpsuit with a biker collar was revived from Fall 1991. The calfskin shearling-lined blouson dates back to 2004, the deerskin anorak jacket comes from 2001, and the pinstripe-stitched leather suit is from the 2003 Hermès menswear collection.

This season, Hermès once again showcased its expertise in working with leather: from smooth leather trench coats to short aviator jackets lined with shearling, and meticulously crafted pieces featuring textures such as pinstripes and herringbone patterns.

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The collection struck a balance between classic luxury and everyday sophistication, with an emphasis on practical elements that, despite their elegance, are suitable for wear beyond the runway. Neutral tones were punctuated with pops of color, such as ochre and coral, particularly in the details and knits. Men’s accessories also had their moment on the runway: Hermès presented new takes on classic pieces like the Plume Fourre-Tout bags, including versions with creative details inspired by retro icons such as boomboxes—another example of the brand’s ability to merge traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary approach.

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As the designer shared backstage after the show, visibly thrilled and overwhelmed with emotion: “I’m happy and proud of myself. I can say that because I work very hard, I work with passion, and I create the Hermès man’s style, which is a simple line. I never change my mind. I go straight to the point. And I make things that, in my view, are the best for Hermès men.” When asked what guided her choice for her very last look—a long dark coat in that spectacular crocodile over slim black silk trousers and a turtleneck—she replied, “because it’s fun.”

The emotional moment and the end of Nichanian’s career at Hermès were met with a standing ovation from the audience. Stepping onto the scene is the new creative director—British designer Grace Wales Bonner—who will bring fresh energy and perspective to Hermès menswear. It will be fascinating to see which direction she takes.