This season, the trench coat comes with new rules and proportions - Nina Rajak shows us how to wear it

I first wore a trench coat at thirty. As someone who tends to defy conventions, both in fashion and in life, my style had long leaned toward the eccentric. That meant I instinctively dismissed many statement pieces as too basic. Before Milan Fashion Week last year, Nina Rajak threw a cropped trench over my shoulders in her studio, creating a perfect proportion with balloon jeans. From that moment on, that trench followed me through every fashion coordinate. The key, however, was that it wasn’t an ordinary trench at all—its cut was sharp and unexpected, with oversized shoulders and asymmetric layering details. It was that versatile go-to piece that elevates any outfit, whether you’re heading out casually or getting ready for the event of the year.

If I tell you that the first Nina creation I ever wore was an extravagant red latex suit, you’ll understand how far we’ve come together. From the avant-garde 3D pieces that launched her career more than a decade ago, to her signature all-black aesthetic, edgy leather, and glam rock energy—my wardrobe contains so many of her designs that I could (un)officially call myself her brand ambassador. It’s because very few designers’ work resonates so deeply with my character—and because we grew up in the same hometown, sharing the same, not-so-typical, fashion ideals. Looking back, I realize I’ve always sought space for experimentation—whether through that 3D costume, avant-garde expression, or today’s ready-to-wear pieces. What’s changed over the past fifteen years, she tells me as we scroll through the photos of her new campaign, is my relationship with function. In the past, my focus was on expression and spectacle; today it’s about creating pieces that live with the woman—accompanying her in her everyday life while still giving her that sense of confidence and distinction. The new campaign revisits her bestselling pieces and introduces several that mark a new era for the brand.

Fashion itself has changed—it’s faster, more plural, but now more than ever demands authenticity. I try to stay true to myself while growing alongside my clients, she adds.

Natural materials are central to this evolution, from wool and cotton blends to raw denim and technical fabrics that add structure, durability, and a luxurious feel while remaining comfortable to wear. It’s the philosophy guiding her expansion into international markets, both in production and distribution, through collaboration with the Daniele Ghiselli showroom in Milan. On the occasion of her Fall/Winter 2025 collection—where the trench coat is the hero piece—Nina Rajak tells me all about the new models and how to style them according to the season’s new proportions and rules.

1. The trench as a statement piece

Coats and trenches bearing the NR signature have always been worn not only as leading pieces but as the piece. That’s why Nina decided to extend her cropped trench all the way to the floor, making it wearable both day and night, even as an alternative to an evening gown or jumpsuit. Pair it with patent boots and chunky jewelry,” she instructs me, “but let the trench remain the focus. Everything else should serve it, without drawing attention away. Mind the silhouette—keep the body lines balanced (tie the belt tightly to accentuate the waist, and keep the rest oversized). And again – less is more. When the trench is the centerpiece, you don’t need much else.

2. Lift the collar high

Alongside the maxi and mini trench versions, there’s now a midi model, featuring the same signature details—lapels, straps, and cuffs—and of course, a high collar. My first cropped trench came from the desire to preserve the classic code of this statement piece while opening space for playful proportions, Nina explains. I wanted to emphasize movement and the waistline, through minimalism that still leaves an impression. Today, the cut is sharper, the construction more architectural, and the materials have evolved tremendously. The idea remains the same, impact through simplicity, but the execution is more mature and technically refined. When I ask which trench she personally prefers, she smiles. It depends on the day and the energy. The long trench gives me elegance and authority, I wear it when I need strength. The cropped one is more rebellious and playful, for days I want to move freely and fast. The midi is my go-to for evenings out, when I don’t want to overthink what to wear—it pairs beautifully with gloves, colored tights, or simple leather boots. I love clothes that let me look different without too much effort, she laughs.

3. Time for new shapes

One of the new pieces from the Fall/Winter 2025 collection may look like a trench at first glance, but it’s actually its upgrade a raw denim jacket in a soft vanilla shade, sculptural in shape, offered as a set with a skirt featuring exaggerated pockets, and also in dark denim. Another standout is a coat with a built-in scarf, an outerwear piece you didn’t know you needed. Functionally, anyone who’s ever been caught in a sudden gust of wind knows the value of having a scarf built into the coat. From a design perspective, the wraparound detail, whether in wool, cashmere, or a blend, encircles the neck seamlessly, perfectly integrated into the coat’s structure. It’s an invitation to lovers of understated but thoughtful style. Style tip? Wrap it loosely around your neck or drape it dramatically over your head—depending on the mood you want to create, Nina suggests. The coats are constructed with strong shoulders and clean lines, meant to be both armor and statement. The scarves are imagined as multifunctional, they can be worn classically or as a structural accent. And that white denim jacket you mentioned earlier is my favorite this season: it brings light, courage, and fresh energy into the wardrobe, while staying practical and modern, she adds.

After all these years, with all the successes and challenges of the fashion industry, I ask her whether fashion still feels like a space of freedom. For me, it still is, she says. Of course, there’s always market pressure, trends, expectations—especially here—but when I work, I choose to turn that pressure into creative energy. The transience of fashion doesn’t scare me; it inspires me to keep finding something new within myself. That’s the beauty of this work—we’re both changing, and fashion is our shared language in that change.