Bucharest Fashion Week: Vogue editors favorites

Recently held, the first-ever Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week gathered many people from the fashion world, showcasing over ten of the latest collections from both Romanian brands and those from Moldova, Georgia, and Ukraine. Besides being captivated and surprised by Bucharest, some brands also impressed us, leading us to select our personal (and somewhat collective, as we were quite unanimous in this choice) favorites and names that you should remember and keep on your radar. Alongside their remarkable current collections, we predict an even brighter future for them.

Milena Zuravljova, Fashion Editor, Vogue Czechoslovakia

My clear favorite at this year’s first Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week was the opening show by Ukrainian designer Lilia Litkovska, a standout that celebrated both her brand’s 15-year journey and the enduring strength of Ukraine. Inspired by the earth and cultural heritage of her homeland, Litkovska’s vision unfolded with sophisticated, austere midi dresses, reconstructed denim, and her signature structured blazers and oversized bombers—pieces that merge femininity with architectural power to deliver a bold yet accessible message on modern femininity.

The collection also introduced selections from her charitable capsule, “Flowers Know Better,” created with photographer Nick Knight. Featuring airy silhouettes adorned with floral prints in the colors of the Ukrainian flag, the sale of each piece in this capsule supports children affected by the war, making this collection a testament to resilience and hope. As someone who proudly wears Litkovska’s pieces daily, carries her brand at my Symbols shop in Prague, and often integrates her designs into my styling, seeing her work on the runway was a deeply proud moment.

Teodora Jeremić, Editorial Direct, Vogue Adria

Choosing a single “top favorite” was never my thing, so I decided to highlight two shows that particularly caught my attention at the first Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week: one local and one guest. One of the things I appreciate most when showcasing fashion or art is considering the context, the appropriate selection of the venue, and the concept that ties everything together—and Romanian brand ALMAZ has succeeded in that. They transformed Nicodim Gallery into the beating heart of fashion and when I say ‘beating heart,’ I mean it almost literally. With gigantic heart on the stage and sound where, intertwined with the heartbeats and in the light of their 10th birthday, the story of the brand beginnings was told in the voice of designer Andra Olaru, a truly ethereal and memorable atmosphere was created. In the constant shift between strict silhouettes and playful forms, in the clash of robust leather and perky tinsel and sequins, and overall idea of contrasting fabrics—lace, leather, silk, sequins, and velous—Andra told a story of contrasts, where smooth and delicate meet rough, and only together they define a new femininity.

On the other hand, story of new kind of femininity was also presented by Georgian designer Lasha Mdinaradze with the Ukranian brand GUDU. In every detail, with pieces that resemble contemporary armor, clean cuts, constrasting stiching and intriguing material choices, GUDU brought to the scene new sort of empowerment and fresh perspective on what “feminity” looks like and how many diverse forms it can have from organza dresses and transparent shirts to the statement jackets and heavy leather coats, inviting us to broaden our visions. 

Essia Sahli, journalist, Vogue Italia

Nissa enchanted Casa Presei Libere’s crowd with its latest collection—a captivating amalgamation of sophistication and freshness. Established with the mission to celebrate feminine allure, the Romanian fashion brand has translated its vision by drawing upon themes of modern romanticism, masterfully intertwining flowing silhouettes with intricate details. Noteworthy are the numerous sheer elements reimagined through long capes and asymmetric applications, which added a modern twist to timeless designs. The essence of Nissa woman is encapsulated in lightweight, ethereal fabrics and a color palette dominated by white, red, and black, enriched by graceful touches of powder pink, ecru, and sugar paper blue, evoking the refreshing spirit of spring. Complementing some of the looks are feathered accents that infuse the collection with an unexpected contemporary flair, included the “pièce de résistance” on the runway, which is undoubtedly the final look: a pristine, flowing cape that embodies sublime boldness with its sweeping train. A collection, but also an invite, to rediscover our unique, inner elegance.